Delgocitinib is a topical, pan-Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitor that targets all four members of the JAK family. In patients with atopic dermatitis (AD), delgocitinib ointment 0.5% resulted in improved efficacy compared with vehicle ointment and a favourable safety profile. This double-blind, cream vehicle-controlled Phase IIb trial (NCT03725722) investigated the dose-response relationship, efficacy, and safety of delgocitinib cream in adults with mild to severe AD. Adults with mild to severe AD were randomised 1:1:1:1:1 to delgocitinib cream 1, 3, 8, 20 mg/g or cream vehicle. Delgocitinib cream or cream vehicle were applied twice daily on the areas affected by AD for 8 weeks. The primary endpoint was change from baseline to week 8 in Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI). Exploratory key secondary endpoints included Validated Investigator's Global Assessment for AD treatment success (vIGA-AD TS; defined as score of 0 [clear] or 1 [almost clear] with a ≥2-step improvement from baseline to week 8) and EASI-75 (≥75% improvement in EASI from baseline) at week 8. Safety was assessed throughout. Overall, 251 patients were randomised (delgocitinib cream groups: n=201; cream vehicle: n=50). At week 8, treatment with delgocitinib cream resulted in dose-dependent change in EASI scores from baseline versus cream vehicle (1 mg/g: -5.0; 3 mg/g: -4.9; 8 mg/g: -5.8; 20 mg/g: -7.6; all P<0.05 vs cream vehicle [-1.9]). A greater proportion of delgocitinib cream-treated patients achieved vIGA-AD TS (1 mg/g: 18.4%; 3 mg/g: 29.2%; 8 mg/g: 30.0%; 20 mg/g: 48.0%) than those in the cream vehicle group (10.4%) at week 8. EASI-75 was seen in 40.8% (1 mg/g), 43.8% (3 mg/g), 56.0% (8 mg/g) and 66.0% (20 mg/g) and 20.8% (cream vehicle) of patients at week 8. The incidence of adverse events was similar with delgocitinib cream (44.5%) and cream vehicle (56.0%), with most frequently reported adverse events (≥5.0% in any treatment group) being upper respiratory tract infection, AD, acne, headache, and application site pruritus. Treatment with delgocitinib cream was more effective than cream vehicle in a dose-response manner for the primary and secondary endpoints. Delgocitinib cream was well tolerated and no safety concerns were identified.
Topical medications are commonly used to manage mild-to-moderate psoriasis as adjunctive treatments in patients receiving phototherapy, systemic agents or biologic therapies. Amongst available topical options, the fixed-dose combination of calcipotriol (CAL) and betamethasone dipropionate (BDP) has demonstrated efficacy and tolerability in clinical trials, with most adverse events being mild and transient local reactions. CAL/BDP has recently been formulated as a cream using polyaphron dispersion (PAD) technology to improve its rheological behaviour and sensory characteristics. We describe the use of CAL/BDP PAD-based cream specifically in patients with mild-to-moderate psoriasis across four Italian centres. The first case involves a man with mild-to-moderate scalp psoriasis, in whom CAL/BDP PAD-based cream was effective in this high-impact disease location. The second case focuses on a patient with pretibial psoriasis, a difficult-to-treat site. The third case is of a woman with palmoplantar psoriasis who reported clinical improvement in the lesions and increased treatment compliance compared with her previous therapies. The last case describes the concomitant use of CAL/BDP PAD-based cream with a biologic drug, resulting in optimized lesion clearance. CAL/BDP PAD-based cream appears promising for managing psoriasis in specific contexts such as lesions in difficult-to-treat areas or residual disease during biologic therapy. Further real-world data and clinical observations will be important to clarify how this formulation can be integrated into individualized management strategies for mild-to-moderate psoriasis. Psoriasis is a disease that causes red, scaly patches in the skin on many parts of the body, causing discomfort, itching and pain. Creams and ointments are the first treatment for people with psoriasis that causes small or noticeable discomfort (mild-to-moderate psoriasis). One of the available creams combines calcipotriol and betamethasone dipropionate (CAL/BDP) in a formulation called polyaphron dispersion (PAD). This article describes the experiences of four Italian people who used a CAL/BDP PAD-based cream to manage their psoriasis. The first was a man with scalp psoriasis and on many other body parts. After using the cream, his red, scaly patches cleared. The second was a patient with psoriasis on the shin, an area that is often difficult to treat. In this case as well, the signs on the skin disappeared. The third patient was a woman with psoriasis on her palms and soles, another challenging location of the disease. Her skin improved, and she found the cream easier to use compared with treatments she had tried before. The last case describes a patient who used the cream in combination with a biologic drug and achieved better skin clearance than when he used the biologic drug alone. In the cases presented, this product helps manage mild-to-moderate psoriasis, even in difficult-to-treat areas of the body. However, four examples are not enough to gain a general conclusion although they provide insights into the use of CAL/BDP PAD-based cream in people with psoriasis.
Ruxolitinib cream has demonstrated efficacy and safety in patients aged ≥ 2 years with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis (AD) in clinical trials. Early real-world data have demonstrated results consistent with clinical trial observations and have indicated that initiation of ruxolitinib cream may reduce the need for other AD therapies, both topical and systemic. This analysis investigated the longer-term (18-month) effect of ruxolitinib cream on AD treatment patterns. In this retrospective, observational study, US claims data from the Healthcare Integrated Research Database (HIRD®) were used to identify new ruxolitinib cream users aged ≥ 12 years between October 1, 2021 and July 31, 2022. The 6 months prior to the index date (first claim for ruxolitinib cream) comprised the baseline period. The 18-month follow-up period was divided into months 1-6, 7-12, and 13-18 to evaluate short- and long-term effects of ruxolitinib cream on AD treatment patterns. A total of 1269 patients were included in the analysis. The mean (SD; range) number of ruxolitinib cream fills during the 18-month follow-up period was 2.4 (2.3; 1-19). By months 13-18 of follow-up, claims for topical corticosteroids, topical calcineurin inhibitors, and topical PDE4 inhibitors were reduced from baseline by 52%, 63%, and 70%, respectively. Use of oral corticosteroids was reduced by 28%, with a 32% reduction in the mean cumulative prednisone-equivalent dose. Among patients with baseline biologic AD therapy (n = 231), 35.5% did not receive biologics during months 13-18 of follow-up. Additionally, among patients without baseline biologic use (n = 1038), > 90% remained off biologics. Use of both topical and systemic AD therapies, including biologics, decreased over 18 months following initiation of ruxolitinib cream. These data suggest that ruxolitinib cream may reduce the need for additional topical therapies and limit escalation to systemic therapies for adults and adolescents with AD.
Foods containing suitable amounts of vitamin K2 and nattokinase have several positive health effective properties. Therefore, in the present research, dairy cream was used as a widely consumed food product for fermentation with Bacillus subtilis natto (BSN) to introduce a new dairy product to the consumers. For this purpose, pasteurized dairy cream (30% fat) was inoculated with BSN and fermented at different temperatures (30°C and 37°C) and incubation times (12, 24, and 36 h) before being stored at refrigeration temperature (4°C). The fermented cream samples were evaluated for protein, ammonium content, protease activity, pH, acidity, nattokinase activity, vitamin K2 (menaquinone-4, menaquinone-7), and total microbial count during the process. The optimal fermentation conditions were found to be at 30°C for 24 h, during which the content of menaquinone-4 (MK-4) and menaquinone-7 (MK-7) increased from 10.92 to 142.27 ng/g and from 4.10 to 43.93 ng/g, respectively. Moreover, fermentation of cream with BSN led to a significant reduction in free ammonium (from 186.84 to 128.36 mg/100 g), and a pronounced increase in protease activity (from 0.003 to 0.328) in the optimum sample. Additionally, all cream samples inoculated with BSN showed a significant reduction (p < 0.05) in total microbial counts throughout the storage period. Sensory evaluation revealed that fermentation did not cause any undesirable properties in the prepared samples compared to the control sample. These findings demonstrate that BSN fermentation is an effective strategy to convert plain dairy cream into a functional product enriched with vitamin K2 and nattokinase, offering a promising innovation for the dairy industry.
The treatment of common warts can occasionally be a challenge in recalcitrant cases, either recurrent ones or non-responders to treatment. In the current study, the efficacy and safety of monotherapy with topical 50% urea cream and combination therapy with topical 50% urea cream and carboxytherapy were assessed and compared in the treatment of recalcitrant common wart. Twenty subjects with recalcitrant common warts in the extremities (excluding the plantar surface) were selected. For the lesions of one side of the body, topical 50% urea cream was used 2 times a day (group A), while for the other side, combination of topical 50% urea cream and carboxytherapy was administered (group B). Carboxytherapy was done weekly, and both treatments were continued until complete resolution. The lesion count and size were assessed until 2 weeks after the fifth session of carboxytherapy. Recurrence rate was evaluated 6 months after complete resolution. Regarding the lesion count, no statistically significant difference was seen between the 2 groups. In group B, decrease of lesion size was significantly greater than that in group A. The time for complete resolution was significantly shorter in the group B. No significant adverse event was reported in either treatment group. No recurrence of lesions was reported 6 months after complete resolution in either group. Our findings demonstrated that both monotherapy with topical 50% urea cream and combination therapy with topical 50% urea cream and carboxytherapy were effective in the treatment of recalcitrant recurrent common warts, although the effectiveness of combination therapy was statistically more.
In this study, pea protein multi-form aggregates were obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, heat treatment, and enzymatic hydrolysis combined with heat treatment (PPEH) to elucidate its influence on the performance of plant-based cream. Results showed PPEH exhibited the smallest psize (312.50 nm), and the surface hydrophobicity (3381 a.u.) and β-sheet content (34.55%) increased significantly. Electron microscopy further indicated that PPEH promoted the formation of multi-form aggregates with elongation and crosslinking. PPEH-based whipped cream showed improved whipping efficiency with reduced whipping time (145 ± 5 s) and increased overrun (195.13 ± 5.07%). Meanwhile, this whipped cream performed superior visual appearance, storage stability, and moderate texture performance. Scanning microscopy revealed a uniform and stable three-dimensional air bubble network for PPEH-based whipped cream. This work not only delineates the preparation mechanism of multi-form aggregates but highlights a potential route into the development of plant-based whipped creams formed by combined modification strategy.
Microplastic (MP) contamination in foods has emerged as an increasing food safety concern; however, information regarding ice cream products remains limited. This study comparatively investigated MP contamination in locally produced unpackaged and industrially packaged ice creams marketed in Türkiye. A total of 24 samples (19 industrially packaged and 5 locally produced unpackaged) were analyzed using microscopic examination followed by ATR-FTIR polymer verification. Detected MPs were characterized according to polymer type, morphology, size, and color. MPs were detected in 100% of locally produced unpackaged samples and 42.1% of industrially packaged samples. EVA and ABS-EVA were the predominant polymer types, whereas fibers and black particles were the dominant morphology and color, respectively. A polymer-weighted pollution risk index (pRi) and a deterministic exposure assessment were also applied. Both the mean pRi values and estimated daily intake (EDI) were higher in locally produced unpackaged ice creams than in industrially packaged products. These findings suggest that differences in handling practices, environmental exposure, and food-contact materials may influence MP contamination. Overall, the results indicate that ice cream may represent a potential source of dietary MP exposure and highlight the importance of implementing effective contamination-control measures throughout production, packaging, and retail handling. This study provides valuable comparative baseline data for future food safety and dietary exposure assessments.
Papulopustular rosacea (PPR) is a chronic inflammatory facial dermatosis with a need for well-tolerated and effective topical therapies. Clascoterone cream 1% is an androgen receptor inhibitor and a promising novel treatment for PPR. In this single-center, single-arm, phase 2 pilot study, adults with PPR applied clascoterone cream 1% twice daily to the face. The primary endpoint was biopsy-proven change in mean sebaceous gland number and diameter over 12 weeks. Secondary endpoints included Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI), patient-reported outcomes (PROs), and prevalence of adverse events. Twenty participants were enrolled, and 18 completed the study. Mean sebaceous gland count decreased significantly (4.94 ± 1.98 to 3.61 ± 2.33; P=0.012). Mean gland diameter also decreased, although not significantly (P=0.182). Mean DLQI scores significantly improved (7.5 ± 5.8 to 3.3 ± 5.6; P=0.029). PRO scores were favorable for papules/pustules (3.2 ± 1.1), facial redness (2.7 ± 1.0), general skin appearance (2.7 ± 1.1), and overall treatment satisfaction (3.1 ± 0.7). The treatment was well tolerated, with no serious adverse events. Mild, transient dryness (n=1) and eye irritation (n=1) resolved without intervention. Clascoterone cream 1% demonstrated favorable tolerability, safety, and efficacy in PPR, with significant improvements in sebaceous gland count and patient-centered outcomes. These findings support the therapeutic potential of clascoterone cream 1% for the treatment of PPR.  .
Eczema is a prevalent, chronic skin condition that affects up to 10% of adults globally and is characterized by recurrent eczematous lesions. Intense itch is often the most burdensome symptom, leading to sleep disturbances and declining quality of life. Additionally, itch–scratch cycles perpetuate skin barrier damage and inflammation. Regular skincare with moisturizers is recognized as a cornerstone of eczema management. This study evaluated the itch relief and safety of Cetaphil® Restoraderm Eczema Soothing Moisturizer (eczema moisturizer) and Cetaphil® Restoraderm Eczema Rapid Relief Cream (eczema cream; Galderma Laboratories, LP, Fort Worth, TX) in individuals with eczema-prone skin. Thirty-three participants with bilateral eczema-prone skin and mild-to-moderate itch were randomized to blinded, split-body application of the products. Evaluations over 24 hours included time to onset of itch relief, grading of itch severity (11-point itch severity numerical rating scale [NRS]), self-assessment questionnaire (4-point structured scale), and safety assessments. The eczema moisturizer and the eczema cream provided rapid itch relief after a single application, with mean times to itch relief of 38 seconds and 43 seconds, respectively. Both treatments significantly reduced itch severity from baseline by 98% to 99% at 24 hours (eczema moisturizer mean NRS: 0.03; P<0.0001; eczema cream mean NRS: 0.09; P<0.0001). Self-assessment questionnaires demonstrated high participant satisfaction with both products after a single application. Single applications of eczema moisturizer and eczema cream were well tolerated, well perceived by participants, and provided rapid and sustained itch relief over 24 hours.  .
An estimated 36% of people in the United States have some degree of lactose intolerance, which may decrease their consumption of some dairy foods. Although many lactose-free products have been introduced to the market, there is limited information about consumer valuation, which can affect their market success. We implemented an experimental auction to assess consumer willingness to pay for 3 ice cream products (no lactose reduction, lactose-reduced, and lactose-free). The auction comprised 2 rounds of participants (n = 135) bidding on each of the 3 products with an information treatment, describing detailed product characteristics (i.e., fat content, added sugar content, and ingredients), provided before the second round. Random-effects censored regression models estimated the impact of product and its interaction with additional information on bid value. The regression models also controlled for participants' reported lactose tolerance status, interactions between product and lactose tolerance, and other demographic variables, including age, gender, education, and ethnicity. Product, Asian ethnicity, the frequency of ice cream consumption, and the interactions between product and reported lactose tolerance were determinants of valuation. Bid values for lactose-free ice cream were higher among individuals reporting very limited, limited, or moderate lactose tolerance, with price premiums of $2.17, $0.82, and $0.55 per half gallon, respectively, increases of 10% to 40% over the mean bid value of $5.43. The higher consumer valuation of lactose-reduced and lactose-free ice cream products by lactose-intolerant consumers may indicate opportunities for new value-added product lines, but requires additional information about changes to production costs and pricing strategies for lactose-reduced and lactose-free products.
Reducing dietary fat intake has become a prevalent health pursuit. In this study walnut meal protein (WP) with a protein content of 90.43% was utilized as a fat mimetic to optimize formulation, investigate component interaction mechanisms, and assess the storage quality of low-fat ice cream. Sensory evaluation and melting rate were used as indicators. The optimal processing conditions were determined to be a cream-to-WP ratio of 21:7, skimmed milk powder addition of 4.30%, and guar gum (GG) addition of 0.06%. Compared to the control sample, the WP and GG samples showed that the WP-GG mix exhibited a smaller particle size, higher absolute zeta potential and viscosity, and lower surface tension. This suggests that the WP and GG mix can synergistically form a stable protein-polysaccharide composite gel network. Laser scanning confocal microscopy images confirmed that the WP-GG sample mix exhibited a markedly dense and homogeneous structure. After 6 weeks of frozen storage, the WP-GG sample demonstrated the highest overrun, the lowest melting rate, and the lowest hardness. At week 6, the syneresis rate was 70.42 ± 0.65% (P < 0.05), indicating the best freeze-thaw stability. Furthermore, short-term storage test results showed that on day 9 the peroxide value and acid value of the WP-GG sample were only 1.48 ± 0.09 mmol kg-1 and 1.92 ± 0.07 mg g-1, respectively. This confirmed that the steric hindrance between WP and GG maximally delayed lipid oxidation, effectively maintaining the oxidative and flavor stability of the ice cream. This research provides a theoretical basis for the high-value utilization of WP and the development of low-fat ice cream. © 2026 Society of Chemical Industry.
Topical testosterone therapy is widely used for testosterone replacement therapy and gender-affirming hormone therapy, but available hydroalcoholic gels contain high ethanol concentrations that may compromise skin barrier integrity during repeated use. In parallel, testosterone creams are prepared through pharmaceutical compounding. However, they lack data on physicochemical stability, skin penetration potential, and cellular compatibility. This study aimed to develop ethanol-free nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC)-based hydrogels as alternatives for dermal testosterone delivery. Testosterone-loaded NLCs were prepared, characterized for physicochemical stability, and incorporated into hydrogel matrices based on Sepinov™ EMT 10, Sepilife™ G305 and Carbopol® 980. Their performance was compared with Ultrasicc®- and Pentravan®-based testosterone creams and the hydroalcoholic reference Testogel® in terms of physicochemical stability, ex vivo human skin penetration, ex vivo skin hydration, and cellular compatibility. The phospholipid-based Lipoid® S75/polysorbate 80 NLCs showed nanoscale particle sizes, high encapsulation efficiency, and sufficient storage stability over 12 weeks. Among the NLC-based hydrogels, the Carbopol-based formulation provided the most robust pH and rheological stability. Confocal Raman spectroscopy showed that NLC gels achieved testosterone accumulation in the stratum corneum comparable to ethanolic Testogel® and compounded Ultrasicc® cream. NLC gels maintained stratum corneum hydration and preserved keratinocyte viability. Remarkably, NLC gels and Ultrasicc® exhibited around 80% cell viability in contrast to Testogel® (71%) and Pentravan® (61%). In summary, Carbopol-based NLC gel exhibited the highest storage stability at both 8 and 23 °C and delivered testosterone to the human stratum corneum in a finite dose ex vivo setup in a similar manner to a marketed reference product.
Capturing the dynamic volatilome of frozen matrices during phase transitions remains an analytical challenge, typically requiring invasive sampling. This study employs proton transfer reaction time-of-flight mass spectrometry (PTR-ToF-MS) as a rapid, noninvasive technique that directly samples headspace volatiles without preconcentration to efficiently monitor four peach-related aroma compounds (isoamyl acetate, 3-hexenyl acetate, linalool, and furaneol) from frozen to melted ice cream. The samples vary in stabilizer composition, including a control (no stabilizer), single-gum, binary, and ternary blends. Monitoring occurred in the frozen state (incubation for 1 min at 4°C) and after melting (incubation for 20 min at 30°C). Results demonstrate that all stabilizer blends attenuated volatile release (average reduction in total aroma release of 40.39%) compared with the control, although statistically significant formulation effects were compound dependent and were not observed for furaneol. The magnitude of suppression was dependent on both stabilizer composition and the physicochemical properties of the aroma compounds. Notably, individual aroma compounds displayed differential release patterns across formulations; isoamyl acetate generally showed a more pronounced release than cis-3-hexenyl acetate in specific stabilized formulations (LGK and LAK). Stabilizers that consistently suppressed peach-related volatiles also demonstrated reduced total odor activity values. These results validate PTR-ToF-MS as an effective tool for monitoring the volatilome of frozen matrices and tracking aroma release during melting, illustrating how stabilizer selection can be optimized for aroma delivery in ice cream.
Cutaneous leishmaniasis (CL) is a neglected tropical disease with limited therapeutic options due to drug resistance, systemic toxicity, and prolonged treatment duration associated with pentavalent antimonials such as meglumine antimoniate (MAT). Lucilia sericata larvae produce hemolymph containing bioactive compounds with antimicrobial and immunomodulatory properties, suggesting potential as an alternative or adjunct therapy for CL. Hemolymph was extracted from sterile third-instar L. sericata larvae and characterized using SDS-PAGE and Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography. The antileishmanial activity of whole hemolymph, its most active fraction, MAT, and their combinations was assessed against promastigote and amastigote forms of L. major. Cytotoxicity, cytokine gene expression and reactive oxygen species production were evaluated. In vivo efficacy was examined in BALB/c mice infected with L. major and treated for 28 days with topical hemolymph cream, intramuscular MAT, or combination therapy. Lesion size and parasite burden were measured. Whole hemolymph and the active fraction significantly inhibited parasite growth in vitro, while combination treatments showed strong synergistic effects. Treatments enhanced Th1-associated cytokines, suppressed Th2 cytokines, and increased reactive oxygen species production. In vivo, hemolymph cream reduced lesion size and parasite load, with the greatest improvement observed in the combination group. No significant cytotoxicity was detected. Lucilia sericata larval hemolymph exhibits potent antileishmanial and immunomodulatory activity and represents a promising and safe topical therapy for CL. Combination with MAT enhances efficacy and may reduce systemic toxicity.
Mango peel, an agricultural byproduct rich in liposoluble carotenoids and pectin, presents challenges for valorization due to the poor bioavailability of carotenoids. This study proposes an innovative strategy termed 'pectin-pigment co-utilization,' which employs peel-derived high-ester pectin (DE = 78.58%) as a natural emulsifier to encapsulate endogenous carotenoids. Compared to commercial pectins, mango peel pectin demonstrates superior emulsifying properties, including a lower molecular weight, higher hydrophobicity (water contact angle: 71.86°), reduced surface tension (41.25 mN/m), and an enhanced oil-holding capacity. These characteristics confer excellent stability to the resulting emulsion. In vitro digestion studies revealed that this emulsion increased carotenoid bioaccessibility by 61.09% compared to free carotenoids, significantly outperforming commercial pectin-based systems. When used as a fat replacer in ice cream, the emulsion enhanced viscosity, reduced melting rate, and improved antioxidant activity. Volatile profiling indicated a shift from dairy-dominant to plant-derived aroma, characterized by increased terpene alcohols, aldehydes, and esters. Sensory evaluation indicated optimal overall acceptability at 50% substitution, where enhanced texture and color were balanced with maintained flavor acceptance. This work presents an integrated strategy for valorizing mango peel into a functional delivery system, contributing to the development of nutritious, low-fat ice cream with improved physicochemical and sensory properties.
We developed an enzymatic hetero-crosslinking strategy to create protein-based Pickering stabilizers that enhance ice-cream meltdown resistance and structural stability. Transglutaminase induced covalent coupling between Cyperus esculentus protein (CEP) and whey protein isolate (WPI), establishing a composition-structure-function framework. Under an optimized window (40 °C, 2 h, pH 6.5), crosslinking promoted an α-helix-to-β-sheet transition and increased surface hydrophobicity. A functional optimum at 30% CEP yielded a continuous, compact scaffold with fast interfacial adsorption. In coconut-oil Pickering emulsions, it improved freeze-thaw stability by forming a resilient interfacial film that withstood ice-crystal disruption. In model ice cream, it lowered the ice-crystallization peak temperature, reduced air-cell size by ∼50%, and increased overrun, producing the longest first-drip time and slowest melting rate. These results clarify how protein engineering governs interfacial mechanics and network connectivity across multiphase frozen matrices. Electronic-nose analysis indicated altered volatile fingerprints and aroma-release patterns, offering a scalable, clean-label approach for frozen dessert formulation.
People from all over the world use cosmetics to enhance their physical appearance, seeking social acceptance. Most locally produced skin-lightening creams used in developing countries are a mixture of fat and water applied to the skin surface. These Skin Lightening creams may pose a potential health risk due to their inclusion of various highly toxic active ingredients like hydroquinone, mercury, and steroids. This study quantifies the levels of these toxic substances in ten commonly used SLC brands in Pakistan and their associated health risks in samples marketed in Lahore. To determine the concentration levels of various ingredients, including hydroquinone, steroids (Betamethasone, Dexamethasone, Hydrocortisone, and Prednisolone), and mercury, high-performance liquid chromatography, ultra violet- high-performance liquid chromatography, and a direct mercury analyzer were used, respectively. Health risks were assessed by calculating Chronic Daily Intake (CDI) and Hazard Quotient (HQ). Results showed that some samples exceeded international limits for hydroquinone (up to 5.56%) and mercury (up to 4.9 ppm), surpassing U.S Food and Drug Administration (USFDA), Pakistan Standards and Quality Control Authority (PSQCA), and World Health Organization (WHO) standards. The analysis also revealed undeclared corticosteroids in several samples: betamethasone (0.6-1.8% in 30% of samples), dexamethasone (1.4-6.4% in 20% of samples), hydrocortisone (0.4-8.5% in 50% of samples), and prednisolone (0.3-1.6% in 30% of samples). These findings suggest the need for improved regulatory enforcement in developing countries along with enhanced monitoring of Pakistan's cosmetic industry to effectively protect public health from the cumulative toxicity of hydroquinone, mercury, and corticosteroids.
Acetylhexamethyl indan (AHI; trade name, Phantolide; CAS No. 15323-35-0) is used globally as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics up to 2% in Europe and Korea. Dermal absorption data are essential for calculating the systemic exposure dose (SED) in cosmetic risk assessment, but experimental data for AHI are currently unavailable. In this study, an in vitro dermal absorption test was conducted using a Franz diffusion cell with mini-pig skin, a widely accepted surrogate for human skin. Validated analytical methods were developed for the quantification of AHI in swab wash (WASH), stratum corneum (SC), skin (dermis + epidermis, SKIN), and receptor fluid (RF) matrices. The methods demonstrated excellent linearity (r2 = 0.9965-0.9999), accuracy (85.5-112.4%), and precision (0.2-11.9%) in accordance with international validation guidelines. A cream formulation containing 2% AHI (actual concentration: 1.88%) was applied to the skin at a dose of 10 mg/cm2, and after 24 h, each matrix was analyzed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The total dermal absorption rate of AHI was 1.78 ± 1.22%, which is markedly lower than the conservative default assumption of 50% absorption according to the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). These findings support more accurate exposure estimation and risk assessment of AHI-containing cosmetics.
The sensory performance of cosmetic emulsions is a critical determinant of consumer acceptance. While it is understood that emulsifiers are the main sensory contributors, systematic investigations that isolate the sensory contribution of emollients within emulsions remain scarce. This study presents the first comprehensive sensory analysis in a large dataset, specifically examining the impact of emollient cascades on the sensory perception of skin creams while maintaining a fixed emulsifier system. A total of 32 oil-in-water emulsions were formulated with the same emulsifier system at different loads (2.5% vs. 5%), while emollients were systematically varied in type and blend composition (4 blends), ratio (4/3/2 vs. 3/3/3) and total load (9% vs. 18%). Sensory evaluation was conducted using a Check-All-That-Apply (CATA) survey with 50 untrained panellists. The resulting dataset was investigated by univariate parametric and non-parametric statistical tests, as well as multivariate multiple factor analysis (MFA) to assess product discrimination and perceptual structuring. While emulsifiers established the prevailing sensory profile of the emulsions, untrained panellists could differentiate primarily based on visual appearance and static afterfeel attributes, driven by the emollient cascades. MFA revealed that appearance (47.73%) and afterfeel (24.66%) were the principal dimensions driving perception. Conversely, descriptors associated with dynamic application (pick-up, rub-out and immediate skin feel) contributed marginally to discrimination, primarily reflecting the comparatively minor influence of emollients during dynamic sensory stages. The results demonstrate that emulsifiers govern the foundational sensory characteristics of emulsions, while emollients play a decisive role in shaping static afterfeel and visual cues perceptible to untrained users. These findings underscore the sensory relevance of emollients and provide formulation-relevant insights into how controlled emollient selection can meaningfully influence consumer-perceived skin feel beyond emulsifier-driven effects. La performance sensorielle des émulsions cosmétiques est un facteur déterminant de l’acceptation par les consommateurs. Bien qu’il soit entendu que les émulsifiants sont les principaux contributeurs sensoriels, les investigations systématiques qui isolent la contribution sensorielle des émollients dans les émulsions restent rares. Cette étude présente la première analyse sensorielle complète sur un large ensemble de données, examinant spécifiquement l’impact des cascades d’émollients sur la perception sensorielle des crèmes pour la peau tout en maintenant un système d’émulsifiants fixe. Au total, 32 émulsions huile‐dans‐eau ont été formulées avec le même système d’émulsifiants à différentes teneurs (2,5 % contre 5 %), tandis que les émollients variaient systématiquement en termes de type et de composition du mélange (4 mélanges), de ratio (4/3/2 contre 3/3/3) et de teneur totale (9 % contre 18 %). Une évaluation sensorielle a été réalisée à l’aide d’une enquête de type « cocher toutes les réponses applicables » (Check‐All‐That‐Apply, CATA) auprès de 50 panélistes non formés. L’ensemble de données résultant a été étudié au moyen de tests statistiques paramétriques et non paramétriques univariés, ainsi que d’une analyse factorielle multiple (AFM) multivariée afin d’évaluer la discrimination entre les produits et la structuration perceptuelle. Bien que les émulsifiants établissaient le profil sensoriel prédominant des émulsions, les panélistes non formés pouvaient différencier principalement sur la base de l’aspect visuel et des attributs statiques du toucher résiduel, dépendants des cascades d’émollients. L’AFM a révélé que l’apparence (47,73 %) et le toucher résiduel (24,66 %) représentaient les principaux domaines guidant la perception. À l’inverse, les descripteurs associés à l’application dynamique (prélèvement, étalement et sensation cutanée immédiate) contribuaient de façon marginale à la discrimination, reflétant principalement l’influence comparativement mineure des émollients pendant les étapes sensorielles dynamiques. Les résultats démontrent que les émulsifiants déterminent les caractéristiques sensorielles fondamentales des émulsions, tandis que les émollients jouent un rôle décisif dans la création du toucher résiduel statique et des indices visuels perceptibles pour des utilisateurs non formés. Ces résultats soulignent la pertinence sensorielle des émollients et fournissent des informations pertinentes pour la formulation sur la manière dont une sélection contrôlée d’émollients peut influencer de manière significative la sensation cutanée perçue par le consommateur au‐delà des effets induits par les émulsifiants.
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) has become an increasingly valuable analytical tool in the dairy industry due to its rapid, non-destructive nature and ability to capture complex chemical information. This study evaluated the feasibility of using FTIR in combination with chemometric modeling to predict the freezing point (FP) of ice cream mix (ICM), an important quality attribute that influences product texture, freezing behavior, and manufacturing efficiency. Traditional methods for FP determination are often labor-intensive and can present challenges when analyzing high-solids dairy systems. In this study, FP values were obtained through a cryoscopic method. FTIR spectra were collected for all samples, and partial least squares (PLS) regression models were developed to relate spectral information to FP values. Model performance metrics indicated that FTIR spectra contained information associated with FP variation; however, overall predictive performance was limited. The relatively weak model accuracy was attributed to the complex nature of FP as a colligative property influenced by multiple compositional factors, including sugars, salts, proteins, and stabilizers, as well as the narrow compositional range and limited sample size of the dataset. Despite these limitations, the results demonstrated the potential of FTIR as a rapid screening tool for FP estimation and provided a foundation for future model development using larger and more compositionally diverse datasets and improved reference methodologies.